When I lived in the city of Siem Reap, Cambodia, I was a backpacker in my early 20s who taught English in the mornings, bartended at night and lived off of $1.25 noodle soups—in those days, a round of golf cost something like a third of my monthly salary and was completely out of the question. So when I got to visit my former home in Siem Reap last year for the first time since I’d moved back to the U.S., I was thrilled to get a chance to play the Nick Faldo-designed Angkor Golf Resort. Dear friend and former golf reporter Ed Wanambwa joining was the cherry on top.
Fresh out of a Colorado winter, I felt stiff and awkward during my warmup. Luckily, only my caddie, Sengkhea, was around to see my first few shots skitter down the bunker-pocked range. “You hit the ball too hard, Sister,” she said, accurately diagnosing the bad habit I’d picked up when playing competitive golf with the boys as a teen. I gave into the heat a little bit and swung slower—the ball leapt off the club and I turned to see Sengkhea nodding and smiling.
It was over 100 degrees that day, with a humidity so heavy it pressed down on me from all sides. Luckily, my caddie was attentive to my needs in a way that reminded me of my friendships with the locals when I lived in Cambodia. During those years, my friends would regularly invite me to their homes for dinner and karaoke or bring me a coconut with a straw in it for hydration or the best beef noodle soup in town when I was sick. On the golf course, this cultural warmth and generosity translated into my caddie dunking a towel in ice water to sling around my neck or following me around with an umbrella to protect me from the sun.
It took me a few holes before I found confidence in my game again, with the help of Sengkhea. At Angkor Golf Resort, almost all caddies are women, and although few of them play golf, they all receive extensive on-course training. Despite not playing golf herself, Sengkhea had a thorough understanding of the sport, suggesting clubs and helping me find my ball when it ricocheted into the trees. She spent most of her time raking, though—at times I wondered if the course was made up more of bunker than fairway.
Ed was a member of Angkor Golf Resort, so I relied on his expertise for advice on course management. A few holes in, he pointed to the hole next to us: “See that?” There were something like six golf carts zooming around the fairway like a swarm of flies. “Must be a government official.” He told me about how he’d seen this before—groups of more than four golfers, plus their security team. Their oversized groups held everyone else up, but no one minded. In Cambodia, time moved along at a seemingly slower pace and the rules could always be bent.
Pummeled by heat exhaustion, I had to take a break before I could finish up the round. But a couple of electrolyte-enhanced beverages later, Ed and I joined course manager David Baron and a friend on the 18th hole, where I sent a hybrid soaring into the greenside bunker before making the up and down on the wide putting surface shaded by fan palms. It had been a totally new experience for me—playing with a caddie and in such hot and humid conditions—but a real treat.
Golf Courses in Cambodia
Cambodia may not instantly come to mind when you think of golf destinations around the world, but that may be about to change. The country is home to 14 different golf courses and recently opened new airports in its major cities to accommodate more travelers than ever before, which means it’s a better time than ever to head to Cambodia for a round of golf.
Angkor Golf Resort is Cambodia’s flagship course, but some of the other top golf courses in the country include the championship course Phokeethra Country Club right near the temples of Angkor Wat, IMG-managed Garden City in Phnom Penh and another Nick Faldo design, Vattanac Golf Resort outside of the capital city. All of these courses offer classic Khmer hospitality like I experienced during my round.
Angkor Golf Resort Course Details
Par: 72
Length: 7,279 yards
Amenities: Clubhouse, restaurants, driving range and putting green, carts, caddies, pro shop, locker rooms, club rentals
Greens Fees: 18 Holes US $155.00, 9 Holes US $103.00. $10 for a cart for 18 holes. All fees include caddie, caddie tip customary but not included (typically starting at $15 per round).
Getting There: You can fly into Phnom Penh and take a shorter flight or bus ride to Siem Reap or fly directly into Siem Reap. The golf course is located about 10 minutes from the heart of Siem Reap— the course offers hotel transfers for an additional fee, or you can request a ride from a tuk tuk on the streets of the city, which will likely cost $10.
